Sun-Soaked Vistas, Food and Wine in Coastal Cambria
I first discovered Cambria years ago on a road trip up Highway 1. Nestled between the tiny artisans’ collective in Harmony (population 18) and the over-the-top extravagance of Hearst Castle, Cambria is an enchanting destination on the California Central Coast. It offers stunning coastal landscapes, a mild climate, and a vibrant food and wine scene. I recently returned to Cambria to spend a couple of days getting reacquainted with its charms and made a few new discoveries.
I arrived at the tail-end of a late spring storm. Driving up Highway 1, the sun had just broken through the clouds and the region’s lush green hills were bursting with wildflowers. The views along the route alternated between bucolic countryside and spectacular coastal panoramas.
I passed several groups of cyclists on the stretch of highway between Cayucos and Cambria, where the shoulders are wide and the views are extraordinary. The Central Coast is a cyclist’s dream with a range of rides that follow coast and climb up into the hills. Cycle Central Coast is a great local resource for finding the best routes, offering lists of rides searchable by length and terrain. I made a note to look for a bike shop once I got to town.
I checked into the Fireside Inn on Moonstone Beach. Just west of historic downtown Cambria, this scenic, mile-long sweep of coastline boasts over a dozen small, oceanside boutique hotels. But the newly revamped Fireside Inn is a new favorite.
Completed in 2022, the 46-room hotel’s thoughtful redesign was inspired by Cambria’s idyllic coastal landscapes and a modern sensibility. The rooms feature distressed wood elements reminiscent of driftwood, subtle wall murals featuring Monterey Pines, a mix of natural textures, and upscale brass and velvet accents that create a refined, inviting atmosphere.
A built-in banquette provides space-saving seating and storage with well-placed USB and electrical plugs at the ready. Built next to the gas fireplace with an overhead lamp, it’s a cozy spot to catch up on work emails. Recessed carpets around the beds are aligned with the height of the wood floors to minimize trip hazards.
The rooms are equipped with gas fireplaces, complimentary WiFi, 55-inch flat screen televisions, work desks, mini refrigerators, and supremely comfortable beds. Plush robes are available upon request. Some of the rooms also feature private patios and ocean views. I stayed in room 302, which offered tranquil ocean views filtered through the graceful branches of the Monterey cypress trees. A short trail connecting the hotel to the boardwalk is located directly across the street.
I grabbed a jacket and headed out to take a walk along the ocean. The boardwalk at Moonstone Beach is perhaps one of the most romantic strolls anywhere in California. A mile-long wooden boardwalk weaves among cypress trees, sandy coves, and rocky headlands. Along the way, benches provide relaxing spots to admire the breathtaking views and watch for migrating whales passing offshore. Stairs lead down to the coves, where you can explore tide pools, search for the beach’s namesake moonstones, watch for dolphins and sea otters, and follow the seabirds soaring overhead. The storm from the previous night had washed piles of driftwood onto the beach and locals had already constructed whimsical shelters on the sand.
While walking the boardwalk, I noticed a new sign for wine tasting. This past spring, Tooth & Nail Wine opened a hip new tasting room at the Pelican Inn & Suites. Visitors can now sip the Paso Robles-based winery’s award-winning wines just a stone’s throw from the beach. I slipped in to enjoy a flight of Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Syrah, and a delicious Cabernet blend.
For more wine tasting along the coast, check out the Pacific Coast Wine Trail (PCWT). The wine trail connects the tasting rooms of nine boutique wineries along a 28-mile stretch of Highway 1, including Cutruzzola Vineyards in Cambria’s West Village. Tucked into charming beach towns, the tasting rooms feature handcrafted small-production wines from local vineyards, often personally poured by the winemakers themselves.
After wine tasting, I headed into historic downtown Cambria for dinner. For a small town, there is a surprising number of great restaurants showcasing the bounty of the Central Coast. Robin’s Restaurant serves global-inspired cuisine in whimsical, storybook setting. Black Cat Bistro is a small, intimate restaurant serving innovative farm fresh fare with extraordinary wine pairings. The venerable Linn’s Restaurant has remained a popular destination serving contemporary riffs on comfort food classics. The Linn family is credited with introducing the olallieberry (a cross between a blackberry and a raspberry which thrives on the Central Coast) to wider audiences and have operated their popular farm, fruit stand, and restaurant for decades. No visit to Cambria is complete without trying a slice of their olallieberry pie.
Wandering through downtown after dinner, I found my ticket to ride. Velo Cambria rents bikes—including e-bikes—and even offers guided tours. I showed up the next morning and was charmed by the shop which is also something of a café serving local baked goods, fresh bites from its food truck, and micro brews on tap. I got outfitted and took a spin along the Santa Rosa Creek Route. The 22-mile out and back gently climbs along a meandering creek into the hills draped with scenic farms and vineyards.
Afterward, I picked up picnic provisions from a local grocer, Soto’s True Earth Market, and headed out to enjoy panoramic ocean views at Fiscalini Ranch Preserve. This stunning preserve features eight miles of trails crisscrossing a rare oceanfront expanse of nature and solitude. The Bluff Trail meanders for more than a mile along the top of a dramatic ocean cliff. More trails climb up to the ridges with views stretching far into the horizon. I found a spot high on the ridge to enjoy a picnic overlooking the ocean and the kaleidoscope of spring wildflowers blooming in the meadows.
